Let’s talk about that little blue jar your mum, auntie, or grandma probably swore by. Yup - hair grease. While the natural hair community has leaned into shea butter this, botanical that, and lightweight leave-ins, hair grease is still that girl for moisture retention too - especially if you’ve got curls that stay thirsty no matter what you try.
While it may not be the flashiest product on the shelf, it works and that’s what matters.
Let’s break down why grease deserves a comeback and how to use it without the drama.
So, what even is hair grease?
Hair grease is usually thick and petrolatum-based (aka petroleum jelly or mineral oil). Brands like Blue Magic, DAX, and Sulfur 8 have been around for decades for a reason - they get the job done. Grease coats your hair, seals in moisture, and leaves it soft and shiny when used the right way.
But isn't petrolatum bad for your hair?
Not really – it’s all about how you use it. Petrolatum isn’t toxic when it’s refined for beauty products. In hair grease, it acts like a seal - locking in moisture by coating your strands.
But here’s the thing: it doesn’t actually add moisture. If your hair’s dry when you slap it on, you’re just sealing in the dryness. So always use it after a water-based moisturiser or leave-in to help lock that hydration in.
Should you put it on your scalp? Meh, not the best idea. Even though it won’t block your pores like the unrefined stuff, it can still build up if you’re not washing it out properly.
That said, grease can still come through for you – especially in dry weather or when you’re rocking protective styles. Just remember: it’s a top coat, not a drink of water for your hair.
Why grease still hits:
- Moisture stays locked in: Once you hydrate your hair, grease keeps it in, so more reapplying product ten times a week.
- Breakage protection: Grease shields your ends from dryness, friction, and breakage.
- Shine without weight: A tiny amount adds glow to your strands without that heavy, greasy feel (if you don’t overdo it).
- Protects your ends: Your ends are the most fragile part of your hair. Grease helps to shield them from breakage and moisture loss.
- Perfect for protective styles: Whether you're rocking flat twists, halo braids, or a tucked bun, grease keeps your strands moisturised and protected while tucked away.
How to use grease the smart way
- Use a little - we mean it: Start with a dime-sized amount per section. Less is more. You want to coat, not suffocate.
- Hair, not scalp: Apply grease to the strands and ends only. Using it on the scalp can block pores and limit growth.
- Layer it last: Always apply water or a water-based leave-in first. Then seal it all in with grease.
Who should be using grease?
- High porosity hair: Hair that absorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as fast benefits from grease to help retain hydration.
- Thick, tightly curly hair: Densely packed strands and tighter curl patterns often benefit from heavier products like grease to stay hydrated longer.
- Low-manipulation or protective styles: Grease is great for maintaining moisture while your hair is tucked away.
- Cold or dry weather routines: Grease acts like a shield against environmental dryness and harsh weather.
Grease vs. your fave stylers
Lightweight creams, mousses, and botanical gels are trending - and they work well for some. But they don’t always deliver the deep, long-lasting moisture that textured hair needs.
Grease may not have fancy labels or tropical scents, but it gets the job done. For many, it wins the long game when it comes to locking in hydration.
Things to keep in mind
- Grease doesn’t moisturise on its own: It’s a sealant, not a hydrator. Apply moisture first, then use grease to lock it in.
- Clarify regularly: Because grease is heavy, clarify your hair once or twice a month to avoid buildup.
- Watch protein balance: If using protein-heavy treatments, avoid layering with grease unless your hair is very dry.
Real talk - is grease for everyone?
Maybe not. If you’ve got fine or low-density curls, grease might be too heavy unless used sparingly. Try it on ends first or during the winter months to see how your hair responds.
But for thick, coily, or consistently dry hair? Grease can be a total game-changer.
Final thoughts
Hair grease isn’t outdated - it’s underrated. It’s the product that’s been helping people retain length, fight dryness, and maintain defined styles for many decades.
If your curls feel dry no matter what you use, your styles don’t last, or your ends look frayed by day three, grease might be the missing piece in your routine.
Use it smartly, pair it with hydration, and let it do what it’s always done best - protect and preserve your hair’s moisture.
